Ben writes:

“Back’s improving albeit slowly.

The two kayaks, sided by side in the garage have gotten many comments and inquiries, but unfortunately not much use! The new one has still not touched water (but is rigged),– I have had mine out twice so far—high water, work, vacations have really crimped my schedule! I’m ready to roll when time permits!

Sure has been great that even with a ruptured L4 disc, and bulging L3—I can paddle and use the W without pain or aggravation!!

Ben”

Read more about Ben’s fly fishing kayaks

Now Gary upgraded to a 2009 W500 GF4 model:

Gary plans to keep his 2006 W kayak for guests.

-”Had a few hours without rain this a.m. so snapped a few more pictures which pretty much cover my rigging and techniques, and show how simple and economical it can be to rig the W500:”

“Noodles along the W rim serve (1) as extra flotation, (2) as head, arm and foot rests, (3) as a fish ruler, and (4) as soundproof cushions for my radio, as well as for rods and paddle which are repeatedly picked up and laid down.  Regular noodles don’t fit the W500 rim very well so I use the “monster” model (4-inch diameter with a 1 1/4 – inch hole, and a smooth, not rippled, outer surface).”

“A steel reinforced outdoor mat with bungee cords serves as a cheap and easy way to minimize scratching the hulls when moving the W from Point A to Point B.”

“Large collapsible fish cooler bag packed with flexible ice packets tucks neatly into the hull.”

“Anchor set-up with rope attached to a large clip which, in turn, clips onto the anchor or heavy duty plastic grabber (for clamping onto mangroves, oyster bars, etc.).  It can also clip onto the rope that comes with the “anchor pin” or “stick-it pin” (not shown, but a 6-foot rod pushed into a soft bottom to hold the W in place).”

And this is a nice redfish that Gary caught in August:

Read more about Gary’s kayak fishing trip

-”I want it to be removable, so when I don’t want to use the trolling motor, I can remove the power head.

I didn’t want to add a Dry box/tackle box to the W500, like I did on my W300′s set up, after removing the power board from the head of the trolling motor. I didn’t want the box up there in my way, it makes for easier dismounts.”

-”This time I’m leaving the power head together, just cutting the shaft, and wiring the motor (bottom half) with a quick connect connector, so I can unplug the power head and remove it for just paddling.

Again, this will be a foot controlled steering, leaving my hands free to battle my fish.

I’ll send you and update after I mount my plate for the trolling motor.

Take care.

Rox”

I’ve gotten to the point where I build them as required from available rigging.  But if you chose to tear open a Redfish Magic and use it straight from the package, that’s fine too.  They are considered saltwater bait.  The original design is called a jig spinner.  The first of its type was the Beetle Spin, which you can read about in another article here on this site.  Redfish Magic was intended to be a heavy weight version to catch redfish in US coastal inshore waters.   It works very well as intended, but when you transition to freshwater, it works even better.  The lure is two sections: a jig spinner harness with a blade swivel combo, a safety pin type clasp, and then a jig head which attaches to the clasp.  The jig head can be adorned with a variety of trailers from plastic to bucktail.  You can vary the weight of the presentation by simply going to a lighter or heavier jig head.

Rigging properly gets the most out of this style lure.  I avoid the use of as much hardware as possible for this bait.  My preferred method of use is to tie a leader to my main line first.   Last week in Canada, it was 15 lb fluorocarbon for 8lb mono line and 20lb fluorocarbon for heavier lines.  The leader is attached to the main line using a four turn surgeon’s knot.  The lure is tied to the leader using a canoeman’s loop knot.  Both those knots can be found and explained here in this site, as well.  Most important, before tying on the lure, is to put a small section of 1/8 inch ID clear plastic tubing over the “R” bend of the shaft.  This creates a closed attachment loop and prevents the leader loop from sliding onto the shaft of the harness.  It also adds a movement or articulation point so the bait has more action in the water.  With zero hardware (metal leaders, snaps, and swivels), you will catch more fish.  The fluorocarbon leader is tough enough for even toothy fish like pike and muskie.

Our success with this type of lure and rigging is unbelievable.  When we introduce it to other anglers, they are a bit skeptical.  However, after they make the first attempt, they are solidly hooked.  What’s funny is how this usually happens.  We talk about the bait and even show pictures.  They smile and say “Hey, that’s great!” and give the lure to their kids to try first.  You know– too simple, only one hook, great for kids– all that sort of thing.  Then, on the first day with it on the water, they are right back casting their expensive baits with loads of gang trebles on them.  Of course, the kids are just catching fish right and left with Redfish Magics, while the adults pull in empty lures.  By about 10AM, and who knows how much bribery, everyone is fishing them.  When the group heads in for the day, the live well is full and there are some great shots in the camera.
For those of you reading this with a little skepticism, I understand.  The lure is cheaper than most and does not have flashy lights or a super realistic finish.  Put that aside and buy some–you won’t be disappointed. Follow the rigging instructions and make sure you have strong arms for all the pulling you will be doing.  The best places to find them in the south are places that sell saltwater tackle.  In the north, you can find them online in the saltwater lure sections of fishing gear stores and catalogs.

Jeff McGovern (c) 2009

More kayak fishing articles by Jeff

-”We christened the W500 today, it was awesome.  At first it took some getting used to on balance as my son 12 and myself went, but once we got the hang of it, it was like learning to ride a bike, then it was easy.  My buddy who is 250 lbs tried it with his daughter (around 60-70 lbs) and he liked it too.  I’ve been sending pics of my kayak to a lot of people and everyone is impressed with it.

I have only paddled a canoe once in the past and I was surprised at how easy it is to paddle the wavewalk.

Here are some pics, we just returned from the lake..

Thanks for a great product.  I did notice that the pontoons deflect outward with more weight, which is normal.

Noel”

UPDATE (June 27): Noel’s Motorized W500 Fishing Kayak

Ben doesn’t like to sit at all in his kayak – He prefers to stand up as much as possible, and that’s why he designed and built this amazing stand-up fishing rig.
Says Ben: -”The rig is great for stability, getting in and out, a rail to grab if you get tipsy, and holds everything – I’ve completed it on all three W kayaks now—third one in half the time.”

Rod or paddle holder made out of closet shelving: Cut the shelving 3 rods wide, bend to your liking, and bend it to clip under the lip of cockpit. EASY……No riveting ,movable, and easy on and off.

Old canoe seat I had modified: Nylon strap cut to length. Stitch in  2 round 1″key holders, hook to clips on Yak. Slide seat back and forth for back adjustment .  To beach Yak unhook rings, slide seat back and off ya go. EASY

Find a car console that you like (about $5.00), get some gorilla glue and a foam floor mat. Cut the mat to the bottom of the console, glue as many pieces as it takes to be even with the bottom of the console. Make two 7″ strips out of the foam mat, 1 1/4″high, 1″ thick. Glue to bottom of console spacing, so they will fit into slits on kayak seat.
Nice and snug , easy on and off – use it if you like.

I was at a nice kayak shop today watching people cramming themselves into $2,000 kayaks. Oh my back felt bad just watching. I didn’t say anything but I wanted to.

-Norm”

However, if you own a W fishing kayak, you may want to reconsider the pros and cons of adding a milk crate -

The only obvious pro that we can think of is that rigging your yak is fun, and attaching a milk crate to the top of a W kayak is an easy project that delivers immediate visual results…

And here are the arguments against rigging your W fishing kayak with a milk crate:

1. When launching, a milk crate would block your natural way into the cockpit from the back side of the boat. This means you might have to get in from the side, and possibly step in water.  Keeping your feet dry is one of those little pleasures you can afford with a W kayak, so why give it up if you don’t have to?
2. A milk crate catches wind, which can become a problem if there’s lots of it blowing around and you happen to be tired, and have a long way to paddle – A milk crate on top of a kayak demands more efforts from the paddler. Windage is essentially a tracking problem, and since W kayaks track better than SOT and sit-in kayaks they are less prone to windage issues, but nevertheless – it’s something to keep in mind.
3. Why store anything behind you, on top of the W kayak hulls, when there’s so much space available inside the W kayak cockpit and in its hull tips – within arm’s reach? It’s like attaching your luggage to your car’s rear bumper instead of just putting it in the trunk, or in the passengers compartment. The W500 offers 14 cubic ft or internal storage space, which is more than any kayak ever would, and probably more than you could ever use … -so why not use it?
4. SOT and sit-in kayaks have a very low deck – close to the water. Kayak fishermen who fish in salt water prefer to keep their reels as high as possible, away from the salt water, and they attach tube rod holders to their yak’s milk crate. This adds almost a foot of distance, and saves them some problems. However, the W kayak hull tips are normally higher, and you can protect your fishing rods by storing them inside the cockpit when launching, so there isn’t that much of a necessity for you to use a milk crate. Besides, you can rig the W kayak stern with deck mounted rod holders that pivot to any direction you want, and will position your fishing rods higher above water surface.
5. The milk crate adds weight to your fishing kayak. It’s not really important for paddling, but it could be for carrying it. It’s not that much, unless you’re tired and have to carry the kayak a long distance. The same is true when you have to cartop your kayak.

Since then he’s rigged it to perfection:
-”It’s a great boat, and I love it. I got what I call the wavewalk-tan on my knees from paddling it so often… I do a lot of stand up paddling and poling. It works for me.” Says John.

Front view of John’s fully rigged W300 fishing kayak.
-”I just purchased a Hummingbird fish finder, but haven’t put it on yet.”

John paddling his kayak standing – scouting for fish.

John’s variation on the front storage solution.
The tube rod holders are RAM-301 (top) and RAM-119 (bottom) .

John’s anchor trolley system – a useful device for certain types of shallow water kayak fishing.

Close up on John’s W300 cockpit. Note the anchor attached to the anchor trolley, and how well the space is organized.

John’s version of paddle holders made from foam noodles. It’s as silent as it gets.

The classic milk crate used for attaching extra rod holders, and for more storage.

Says John:

-”I didn’t have time to go fishing today because we are going to the ball game tonight to watch the Brewers beat the Cubs. However I did do a little painting, and I like the way it turned out. When I head up north this summer to the rivers and backwaters maybe this will help me sneak up on the big ones. Check out the new color scheme.   Talk to you soon, John”

Robert is an avid kayak fisherman, who goes on kayak fishing expeditions in the mangroves of Western Florida. He has a lot to tell about his fishing techniques, which include fresh live bait and paddling standing while scouting for game fish.

Robert’s first time in the W fishing kayak story is particularly educating.

Says Robert about his W fishing kayak: -”I don’t believe there is anything else out there, in this price range, with the capability of this craft.”

He rigged his W fishing kayak with super-silent paddle holders, and other interesting devices.

Weight: 2.2 lbs (1 kg)

Price: $20

-”I ventured out today to try to find crappies or blue gills. I tried two lakes, water temps were in the low 40′s. I found fish but I couldn’t coax them to bite. It may be a little early yet. More importantly it was my first time out on the W with fishing gear. Out for six hours on two lakes and no back fatigue!

My fish finder mount is a portable unit that came with a plastic base and battery holder. It also came with a nylon soft case which I removed and will use for ice fishing.

Sometimes the best set up is the easiest. I simply used the W’s bungee to secure plastic base and added a safety cable. It is very secure. I mounted the transducer sideways on the bracket and attached it with the suction cup on the side of the W. It worked great. Now we just need the water to warm up.

John”

-”I took one of those paddle clips and attached it to a section of pool noddle.  I plan on using it in place of the rod positioning one I have now that is just a crude grove cut into a section of the same stuff.  You might notice the screws holding the piece in place in the foam.  Those are actually not into the foam itself.  I used plastic screw in dry wall anchors with the tips cut off first, they work pretty well when working with foam.  They won’t handle a heavy load but for this purpose to position the rod tip it should be fine.”

These clips are molded from Nylon, which is common for small-size deck rigging.

Each clip features two holes, and can be either riveted to the kayak hull (preferably), or attached with bolts and nuts.

Note: We don’t recommend using screws for this purpose, or for attaching any piece of deck rigging to your kayak.

The clip has two positions: Open – ready to take the paddle, and folded – so it doesn’t get in the paddle’s way when you’re paddling.

The clips’ internal diameter is 1.25″, which fits the Wavewalk paddle’s shaft diameter.

You can also use it for holding the Mohawk paddle, although it features a smaller, 1.125″ diameter shaft.

When ordering the Wavewalk PSP paddle you can choose between getting a free pair of these folding paddle clips, or a pair of rubber paddle holders (clips). The advantage of the folding clips is that they’ll never get in your paddle’s way when you’re paddling your fishing kayak. The advantage of the rubber paddle holders is that they won’t break.

Separately from our PSP paddle, a pair of folding or rubber paddle clips costs $10 plus S&H.

Different kayak fishermen prefer to have the paddle clips in different places. We recommend that you don’t attach paddle clips to your fishing kayak before having fished from it several times, that is enough for you to know exactly where you want those clips to be.

The line includes paddles, paddle holders, anchors, stake out pole, deck rigging, flotation modules, deck mount rod holders, flush mount rod holders, kayak carry handles, and our Wavewalk hat.

We offer these products as a service to customers who bought a W-kayak from us, and are looking to either extend their basic order, or get spare parts after the initial purchase.

So, from a regular web page we turned it into a directory with links to customer reviews. In fact, in recent years our customers have taken the lead in outfitting and rigging (the fishing term) ideas and projects, which made us at Wavewalk less important, and we’re grateful for that…

We no longer offer information about seats since although some W kayak paddlers and fishermen have outfitted their boats with various types of seats, it seems like they hardly use them at all, as the paddling and fishing position of choice is riding (mounted), because in it the upper body is supported by the legs on both sides of the saddle.

Also, we no longer offer information an DIY flotation because all our kayak models feature one or two pairs of side flotation modules – standard.

We don’t offer information on electronics since basically there’s no difference between the way one would outfit his/her sit-inK or SOT kayak with a GPS system or fish-finder, and the way it’s done in W kayaks, except that with the latter it’s easier…

Anyway, we hope our visitors would find the changes useful, and we’re always interested to know what they think about both form and content of this page, and all other sections of our website.

Yoav

Dennis contributed his kayak review to this website, and many excellent outfitting and rigging ideas, such as this ‘storm proof’ paddle holder system:

As it’s easy to see, this paddle isn’t going anywhere even when Dennis is fighting a fish or busy with his electric trolling motor, and even if the kayak is in turbulent water.

This picture shows the inner side of the cockpit, where Dennis attached a Nylon eyelet that serves as an attachment point for the hook on the bungee cord:
The hook prevents the bungee from coming out of its place when holding the paddle.
The last picture shows the paddle holder from inside the cockpit, with the hook securing the bungee to the eyelet.