Tag Archive: rigging fishing kayaks

HBBCO Pennsylvania outdoor trade show schedule

By Joe Stauder

HBBCO

It’s Sport Show Season!   Stop by our booth and say Hi!

See Wavewalk’s All New 700 series, and check out our various fishing, hunting and motorizing options for the 500 series.

  • January 28th-31st  at the Early Bird Sports Expo at the Fair Grounds in Bloomsburg, PA.
  • February 25th-28th  at the Greater Philadelphia Outdoor Sports Show in Oaks, PA

 

“Bonefish”, my customized, motorized Wavewalk 700

By Rem Seil

Florida

Completely satisfied with my W700, nicknamed “Bonefish”

I put an electric 46# thrust electric motor on my W700, which gives me just under 4 knots speed. Perfect for the short distance backwater fishing I do. Went a total of 14 knots the other day (measured by iPhone app Navionics which can give you speed, route, and total distance of trip), This was an extra long trip for me through the narrow backwater channels. The W700 performed like a charm.

Designed some aids that makes the W700 easier to move around on dry land and load. One is a two wheel apparatus that allows me to easy take the kayak from my Jeep to my garage where I store the W700 (see attached photo). Could also be used if had a long distance from Jeep to water’s edge, but have not needed to use this as can drive the Jeep right up to the water.

Also designed a “Catyak” (Catamaran Kayak) roof rack that enables the W700 to sit on top on my Jeep without sliding side to side (photos attached). Only need simple ties for forward an back. Load the kayak from the front end of the Jeep, using the hood as a “stepping stone”. Lay down little throw rugs on the hood and top of Jeep which enables me to simply push the W700 up the “ramp” sitting squarely on the Jeep’s modified roof rack. Can load and unload the Kayak in couple minutes without much effort.

Made some aids for the battery holder, fish pole holders (see photo attached), and other minor items that enable me to easily maneuver around and fish out of the W700. Each trip I learn a little more and when come back, I make the adjustments required to simplify matters enabling more effortless time fishing. But that is the beauty of the W700, she enables you to personalize your Kayak to exactly how you want and your needs. You just have to be a little creative in coming up with aids that allow you to do this. There is NO manual…

Overall, having a great time customizing “Bonefish” and catching lots of Reds and Snook in the process.

Thanks…

Remo “Captain Bonefish”

fishing kayak on roof rack

 

Pole Holder

Tite-Lok rod holders with DIY base inserted in the saddle

 

Roo fRack

 

Roof Rack 2

 

Trolly 2

 

Trolly

More rigging and fishing with “Captain Bonefish” »

More Wavewalk fishing kayak reviews »

 

 

Saddle rigging

By Paul Harrison

Thought I would share a rigging idea that’s working well for me. I used the familiar shoelace style deck rigging on the front third or so of the Wavewalk saddle. Works great securing items you want close at hand. You see as examples a fish lipper and that’s a spare paddle on the left. It’s very versatile. The Styrofoam board is not ideal but not bad either, a piece of foam rubber would be quieter. If you are going to take a passenger you could cover the rigging with a towel or other padding. The bungee can also be taken off in two or three minutes if needed. Obvious piece of advice is to keep the pad eyes and hooks well above the waterline.

fishing-kayak-saddle-outfitted-for-storage

Read more about Paul’s W kayak fishing, paddling and outfitting experience »

Rigging Your Fishing Kayak

Some basic practical advice about how to rig you kayak for fishing

Contrarily to you might have heard, there is no such thing as perfect rigging for a fishing kayak, and the reason for it is that kayak anglers differ by their personal needs, fishing style, fish species they go after, etc.
Having said that, there are still many opportunities for you to make mistakes, and this is why we generally recommend to go about these things slowly and carefully, without rushing into particular solutions unless you know there’s a good chance that they’d work well for you.

Practically, this means it can be impossible for you to tell in advance exactly what type of rod holders would benefit you the most, and whether you need this type of anchor or another. Same is true for positioning the rod holders, what kind of paddle holders you need, and more.

As a rule, if you fish in saltwater you’d better try to keep your fishing rods dry, which means that either you’ll store them inside the hull for when you pass through the surf, or use tall deck mounted rod holders in the stern. Some deck mounted rod holders have a long leg, which adds distance between your fishing rod and the corrosive sea water.
Tube rod holders are easier to use, because you just stick your fishing rod in, and take it out instantly when you need to. However, rod holders equipped with a latch would better secure your fishing rod in its place.

Obviously, if you’re fly fishing you may not need a rod holder at all, but you do want one, it should be of a type that fits fly rods.

As far as positioning the rod holders on your kayak’s deck, our only advice is to take your kayak out and fish from it a number of times before you decide on a new fishing rod. You’d need to make sure that neither fishing rod nor line interfere with your paddling under any circumstance, including when you use your kayak for trolling.
You can’t use screws to attach a rod holder, or any other object to your kayak’s deck. The reason for it is that the plastic isn’t thick enough to secure a screw in its place. The alternatives are either using bolts with nuts, or rivets. Bolts have more initial grip than rivets, but they lose it with time, since your kayak is made from polyethylene, which is a relatively soft plastic resin.
Remember: Deck mounted rod holders are easy to install, while flush mounted rod holders require that you make a hole in your kayak’s deck, and that hole should be of a certain size and shape. Making such hole isn’t necessarily easy for a beginner.

As for paddle holders, the problem becomes much more complicated: Some kayak anglers insist on using paddle holders that are silent, and that means using paddle holders made from foam. Other kayak anglers must make sure they don’t lose their paddle, because they fish i deep water, and far from shore. This means they must use paddle clips of some kind, or a bungee and hook to secure the paddle in its place.
Some kayak anglers like to drop their paddle in front of them while they rush to grab a rod that shows that a fish is pulling on its line, or if they want to make a fast cast because they spotted a fish. Others kayak anglers want to drop their paddle on their kayak’s side, in order to allow them more freedom of movement while they cast a line, reel a fish in, and land it.
Again, after fishing a few times you’ll know more about the type of paddle holders, or clips that would work better for you.

Anchors differ by their weight and form: Some have more grip than others, but it doesn’t necessarily mean they’re better, because an anchor with too much grip might get entangled in rocks or roots, and if you don’t manage to release it you’ll have to cut its line and part from it.
As a rule, kayak anchors should weigh between 1.5 lbs and 5 lbs. The heavier anchors are for moving water, such as streams or the ocean, and the lighter anchors are for ponds, small lakes and slow moving rivers.
Here too, you can add more functionality at a price of adding complexity: Anchor pulleys (vertical) and anchor trolleys (horizontal) may serve you well if they fit some specific need, but they could just make things harder for you if you don’t need them.

And what about a milk crate? What seemed to be an obvious storage solution in old fashion sit-in and SOT fishing kayaks is no longer needed in the W500 Wavewalk kayaks, simply because this new generation of fishing kayaks offer so much internal, accessible and dry storage space, as well as a lot of deck space, which make the milk crate redundant.

Should you add a seat to your kayak, and what type?  The answer to this question is rather simple:  If you happen to own a sit-in or sit-on-top kayak (SOT), you must outfit it with a seat (and footrests, in case those are not molded-in).  No kayak seat may offer what it promises, that is a comfortable ride, and the reason for it is explained in this article about kayak ergonomics »

If you’re about to get your first W-kayak, don’t hurry to outfit it with any kind of seat, because you’re likely not to need it at all, as most W kayak owners have found. Just take your time to get used to the riding position, sitting, and standing, and sooner or later you’re going to forget about your seat project.

Rudders and kayaks – an unhappy marriage…  Aboriginal kayaks were not equipped with rudders, because the people who crafted and paddled them were supreme paddlers, who spent their childhood paddling. Unless you fit this description, you’re likely to need a rudder for your sit-in or SOT kayak, because in addition to your own relatively skill level, these boats track very poorly, because their design depart greatly from the sleek proportions of Inuit kayaks.
A rudder is a pain to activate, and requires your constant attention. It also has a nasty tendency to harvest seaweed, and get stuck in rocks, roots and other underwater objects.  And if you’re planning long trips, you should be aware of the fact that a rudder would slow your kayak down by an average of 10%.
Luckily, W-kayaks do not require rudders at all. Since the first W kayak appeared in 2004, only one W kayaker installed a rudder in his W kayak, and that’s basically because he sails it.  No other W kayak paddler or angler has added a rudder to their W kayak, simply because no one saw any reason to do so.
W kayaks track like no other kayak, even under strong wind.

Outriggers – Yes, no, what type, and how many?  There is no need for you to add outriggers to a W kayak, unless you’re planning to go at very high speed, using a powerful outboard gas engine, or a big and powerful sailing rig. A normal, small electric trolling motor does not necessitate you add outriggers to your W kayak.
W kayaks are stable enough to go in moving water, as well as enable you to paddle and fish standing up in confidence and safety that you won’t find in any other kayak – including those who have outriggers.
If you decide to increase your W-kayak’s stability, remember you don’t necessarily need a pair of outriggers to stabilize it, and in many cases a single, large size outrigger would suffice.

What about a motor?  It’s possible to add an outboard gas engine to a W kayak, but in case you’re interested in doing so, you must take into account adding flotation as well, and the same is true for an electric motor.
As a rule of thumb, we would advise patience and cautiousness with any motorizing project. To begin with, you may ask yourself “do I really need this thing?” – Try to answer this question after using your new W-kayak in a human powered mode. You may reach the conclusion that your W kayak is fast enough, easy to paddle, and takes you where you want to go – and back…
Electric trolling motors seem perfect, but they add weight and complexity to your W-kayak, and may not be worth the trouble after all.
Read more about motorizing your kayak »

Learn more about how other fishermen rig their kayaks »

Please feel free to call or email us for consultation

Finally Ready to Go Fishing!

By Chris Henderson

Fishing Kayaks of Gig Harbor

The end of winter and  beginning of spring has been a minefield of chores getting the garden ready, trimming trees etc. which has kept me from some of the important things of life… FISHING.  
Having sold my previous Northwest Downriggin model I had to rig up a new one.  I was finally able to get to it and thought I would show it off.
Here are the features that make this rigging option package the best for our area.
When it comes to hardware we only use stainless and nylock nuts. Because we are in saltwater as often as fresh this is really important.

We only rig with Scotty rod holders and rod holder receivers.  A tip for you if you use the round flush mount receivers. In the electrical department of your hardware store you can find plastic round blank covers.  These are used to cover the junction boxes of electrical installations.  They make perfect backing plates for the Scotty flush mounts.  They are tough and inexpensive.

We use two rocket launchers in the back which are great for your net, extra pole, and the mono pod holding your gopro. Fishing videos are definitely on the docket for this year! We use the Scotty gear-head extenders for the rod holders in the front. Trolling is the name of the game for many of the fish I target, and we are sometimes able to use two poles. The rod head extenders get your rod up and out of the way of your paddle stroke.

We use a Scotty Lake Troller downrigger installed into a regular rod holder mount.  It gets the downrigger up a little ways making it easier to use, but is mounted far enough forward on the saddle so that when you are not using it you can just take it off and it does not interfere with other uses of the boat.  A downrigger is vital when you are wanting to troll your lure past fish suspended at particular depths.  Combined with the depth finder you can actually see your downrigger ball and can I can troll at the exact depth the fish are holding at.

Finally we have a simple depth finder and install the transducer using the duct seal method.  I have found this to be very reliable and allows me to remove it easily when fishing season is over and duck hunting begins.

Let the 2015 fishing season begin!

kayak-rigged-for-trolling-fish-finder

kayak-rigged-for-trolling-with-downrigger-04-2015

kayak-rigged-for-trolling-with-downrigger-closeup

kayak-rigged-for-trolling-with-downrigger-setup

kayak-rigged-for-trolling-with-downrigger-side-view-1

rear-view-with-tube-rod-holders-and-fishnet

view-from-inside-the-cockpit

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