When the W kayak is outfitted with a powerful motor such as a 2 hp gas outboard, it can travel at speeds exceeding 8 mph. Currently the speed record for motorized W kayaks stands at 13 mph.
While spray splashing into the cockpit isn’t a problem in regular conditions, spray might splash into the front part of the cockpit when the water is choppy and the kayak’s bow hits waves at high speed.
This problem can be solved by outfitting the cockpit with a cover such as a small tarp.
Most W kayak models come outfitted with a preparation for a cockpit cover, and installing a cover is easy, takes less than a minute, and it can be done when you’re on the water.
The Spray Shield can offer similar protection, and it’s attached in a similar way, using the same bungee and hooks that are part of the preparation for cockpit cover.
The Detachable Spray Shield can’t be attached to the kayak while the cockpit cover is attached to it, so you have to choose which one you prefer.
Thickness: 0.098″ (2.5 mm)
Dimensions: 48″ x 12″ (122 cm x 30.5 cm)
Weight: 2 lbs (0.9 kg)
Lashing hooks: 6
Made in USA
No shipping fee when shipped together with a kayak
$25 S&H fee when shipped to addresses in the continental US (48 states)
$30 S&H fee when shipped to addresses in Alaska and Canada
How to attach the Spray Shield
Attaching and detaching the Spray Shield is easy, and takes less than a minute -
Hold the Spray Shield with the hooks facing outward (away from you) and downward. Move to the front of the cockpit, and place the Spray Shield before the spray deflector’s front end. Lift the bungee in the front, and bring it over the shield’s two front hooks, as seen in the above pictures. Pull the sides of the shield towards you until they fit shape of the cockpit’s front end, and attach them using the bungee in the same way (see pictures).
To make the bungee tighter you can shorten it.
Storing it in your kayak
When not attached, the Spray Shield is flat, and it fits easily in one of the hull tips behind you – Just slide it inside. The end will protrude from the hull tip, but not enough to bother you.
Motorized kayaks are heavier than paddled kayaks, and they go at high speed. This requires high capacity flotation, which is what Wavewalk’s inflatable detachable flotation modules offer.
Made in USA
Tech Specs – stated for 1 inflatable flotation module:
Dimensions: Length: 60″ (152 cm) Diameter: 6.5″ (16.5 cm)
-Note: Fits exactly between the eyelets on the kayak’s sides in the XL and INF configurations. -Note: Each side of the W500 kayak can fit up to 2 inflatable flotation modules (Maximum 4 modules for the kayak’s sides).
Weight: Each module weighs 2 lbs (0.9 kg)
Volume: The volume of an inflatable module is 2,000 cubic inches (8.65 gallon / 32.5 liter)
-Note: This is more than 2 XL foam flotation modules combined.
Material: PVC / Black
Thickness: 30 MIL (0.03″) or 0.763 mm (Heavy Duty)
Air valves: Each module is outfitted with 2 air valves - A 1″ wide easy-filling valve, and a small valve for quick pressure-release.
-Note: The wide air filling valve eliminates the need for an air pump.
-Note: Do not fill the flotation module completely – Always leave some room for the air inside to expand as the sun warms it. If you see the surface is too stretched, release some air through the small valve.
Attachment: Each module is outfitted with 2 heavy-duty rope eyes, and ships with 2 anodized aluminum carabiners
Repair: Each pair of inflatable flotation modules ships with a PVC repair kit
Price: This accessory is sold in pairs. Each pair sells for $228.
Shipping: When ordered together with a W kayak, these accessories ship with no additional cost. When ordered separately, S&H is $20 to addresses in the continental US, and $25 for shipping to addresses in Canada and Alaska.
Inflatable vs. XL foam flotation
Price for similar buoyancy: 4 x XL flotation = $124 vs. 2 x inflatable flotation = $228. This means the inflatable is twice more expensive.
Puncture: Inflatable modules might get punctured by sharp objects, such as fishing hooks.
-Note: If your motorized W500 kayak is outfitted with just one pair of inflatable flotation modules at its rear, you can still fish out of its front.
Paddling: When attached as seen in the above picture, the inflatable flotation makes the W kayak’s rear end become much wider, and this makes the kayak harder to paddle.
-Note: In this configuration, the W500 is as wide as our competitors’ ‘barge’ fishing kayaks, which don’t lend themselves to paddling…
In sum, the inflatable flotation is a solution fit for motorizing and not for paddling long distances, unless you attach these modules under the kayak’s saddle.
Looks: The inflatable flotation modules look better than the ones made of foam.
Capsize prevention: Being wider than the foam modules, the inflatable flotation modules are more effective in preventing the kayak from flipping.
Trimming: Adding buoyancy at its stern helps the kayak keep level at higher speed.
Shipping: Inflatable flotation modules cost less to ship than XL foam modules do.
Here’s a video showing me breaking in the new motor on my W kayak.
I’ve never gotten it more than a 1/3 throttle yet. I’m still trying to “break it in” according to their suggestions. The torque it makes is scary, so I was trying to gradually pick up my speed to ensure I won’t over-tax the motor mount.
I was driving with my left hand, and trying to video and keep my iPhone visible with my right hand. The video shows the magic number “13″ on the screen.
I have yet to figure out how to edit these videos.
My doctor told me I had a pinched nerve in my back, so hopefully when it heals a little more, I will have mastered the videotaping art.
Finally, I was able to try out my new motor. It was a little hard getting it started, but after that, it ran fine.
In officially, I am the new speed record holder in a W boat! I used my IPhone app, and it said I was doing 13 mph! I had two friends who witnessed it from shore, who said that I might need some ballast up front to keep the nose out the air! I was sitting on the middle in my seat, and didn’t feel the least bit “out of control”, in fact it was quite smooth! I am going to make some trim adjustments, because my transom did get a little “low” in the water. I was not using a third of the throttle yet, ( still doing the “break-in thing), but as I gave it a little more throttle, my motor mount cracked almost in half! Thankfully, I had tied a small rope around the motor to an eyelet up closer to the original transom area, so I was able to let it “idle” and get it back to the dock. The pictures show the damage.
I think the foam (sides), may be a game changer. There was not one bit of wavering from side to side as my speed increased. I was sitting directly in the middle of the cockpit, and steering with a U-joint tiller extension.
Okay. Next is to scrap my seat, get another motor mount, and adjust my trim… I should have my Hero 3 camera set-up and mounted by then to have tangible evidence of my speed claim as well.